Ask a Serbian where to take a visitor and they rarely say "stay in the city." The country's quiet glories are out in the landscape, and a surprising number are within a day's reach of the centre. Here is where to point the car.
The monasteries
Medieval Serbian monasteries are among the most atmospheric places in the Balkans. Studenica, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and nearby Žiča near Kraljevo are the best known in central Serbia; Sopoćani, further south, holds frescoes considered among the finest of the medieval European world. You do not need to be religious to be moved by them.
The mountains
Kopaonik is Serbia's great mountain — skiing in winter, hiking and clean air in summer. Closer to Kraljevo, the Stolovi range offers gentler heights and long views (and, for pilots, flying). The forests and gorges of Tara National Park, above the emerald Drina, are postcard Serbia.
The rivers and canyons
The Uvac canyon is the country's signature natural sight — a river folded into tight meanders below limestone cliffs, patrolled by rare griffon vultures. The Ibar valley threads through central Serbia, and the Drina marks the dramatic western frontier. Boat trips, rafting and clifftop viewpoints are all on offer.
The spa towns
Serbia has a long tradition of thermal spa towns. Vrnjačka Banja, near Kraljevo, is the best known — a genteel, green place built for taking the waters and slowing down. It is an ideal recovery day for anyone in the region for treatment.